BBC on Italy's undercover pizza detectives:

But just as there are strict criteria for determining "authentic" Champagne or Parmigiano cheese, this group of culinary custodians has set out to ensure that the delectable dish stays true to its Neapolitan roots – at least if you're going to call it "real" pizza.

"There is a big connection between this kind of food and the soul of Naples," says Massimo Di Porzio, vice president at the AVPN, who is flecked with flour in his corporate profile photo.

With its training school, competitions, trade fairs and a large bronze pizza statue shining just outside its headquarters the AVPN has become a veritable empire of pizza authenticity. Its lengthy guidelines dictate that all certified pies must consist of a "roundish seasoned disc" with a high-border, puffy crust (cornicione) no taller than 1-2cm. There should be no "big bubbles" or "burned spots". Pizzas must be "soft", "elastic" and foldable. Pizza-makers can't use a rolling pin or baking tray. Cooking a pizza for longer than 90 seconds is sacrilegious. And the final product must be consumed within 10 minutes after emerging from the oven.

AVPN stands for "Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana", aka the "True Neapolitan Pizza Association".

If you haven't heard of AVPN before, it's basically this: your restaurant pays a fee, follows some rules, and if you pass you are accredited with the official seal of approval from AVPN.

I think it's a giant gimmick and it doesn't actually mean quality pizza. The idea that there's some group of folks in an ivory town saying "This is real neapolitan pizza" upsets me. It's dumb. Good pizza is good pizza, no matter how it's made.

Still, the article was amusing and informative if you weren't aware of AVPN already.